" When you give, you show your appreciation to the source of all things." Deepak Chopra
I am a giver, not a taker. I love to give. The only difference today is that I give without ANY expectations. In my past, I gave to allow more people to like me. I had low self esteem. I even did this with life-partners at that time. You would think your partner would love you for who you are! It doesn't always happen that way. I give today because I want to give, not because I feel obligated--nor do I need to be loved more. I am loved today by the people I choose to love. It is a happy feeling to know you are loved, and you do not have to give anything. I just have to be myself. I give of myself in my God chosen profession every day. This is my gift back to my Higher Power.
I give hand made tokens or gifts because I feel it is the right thing to do. Dolly Levi portrayed by Carol Channing, Betty Grable, Ethel Merman, Ginger Rogers, Pearl Bailey and Richard Skipper on the stage or Barbra Streisand on the screen said this:
"Money, pardon the expression, is like manure. It's not worth a thing unless it's spread around, encouraging young things to grow."
I feel the same way about giving hand made crafts. If your God given hands can make a special gift, share it. Spread it around so all people, no matter what age can be encouraged.
A craft or hobby can help manage your stress. A hobby can also boost your self-esteem. You need to set time aside to do your hobby. One of my hobbies is Needlepoint. Whether you do other forms of stitching such as embroidery, petit-point, tapestry work, crewel, cross stitch or needlepoint, this book can be a valuable tool in starting your way to a healthy heart. Perhaps all forms of stitching should be called canvas work. Needlework is one of mankind’s oldest art forms. It dates back to Exodus in the Bible and has been found in the tombs of Egypt dating back to the 15th century. It came into its own art form in the 12th century in China. Due to technological advances and machinery, it became a dying art form. It was not until the early 19th century that needle work had its revival.
About twelve years ago, I realized I needed to find a hobby to idle my tension. I was in Florida walking on Los Olas Boulevard when I passed a store that had needlepoint designs in the window. I decided right then to start needle pointing. I went in the store and asked Joan, who paints her own designs to quickly show me a stitch. I easily remembered from watching countless hours of my mother, grandmother and Aunt Katie stitching while sitting in the living room. I bought my first needlepoint, an Orchid Floral. In addition to reading medical journals I began to read books on stitching. I think needlepoint could be one of the most rewarding hobbies you will ever undertake. Not only does it fill the hours and relaxe you, but also provides you with a finished product and a sense of accomplishment. It also makes one of a kind birthday and holiday gifts for loved ones.
Needlepoint as most hobbies, can be either simple or difficult. This depends on the individual. I have met some people who always use the basic and easiest stitches. I feel they use needlepoint as a restful pastime to create gifts for people. There are others who use needlework as a creative outlet. These crafter's delight in working with complicated patterns using a variety of threads. Some compose their own designs. I am a needle worker who is all of the above. Therapeutic though it may be, needle point for me is above all an artistic activity. And, needle work is not an exclusively a female hobby. I am sure we all remember when Hall of Fame Football player Rosie Greer started needlepoint as a hobby.
On a cruise six years ago, I pulled my canvas from my bag and started to stitch while sitting on a deck chair. When I looked up I saw two women also stitching, one doing needlepoint and the other, cross stitching. As we worked our needles, we talked about stitching and enjoyed the warm sun and cool breeze. We later met during the week to share our collection we each brought with us. One woman told me that stitching is a popular hobby among men who spend a great deal of time at sea. I have met many business executives who find that stitching helps them unwind after a stressful and tense day at the office.
My wallet quickly discovered that needlepoint can be an expensive hobby. It doesn’t have to be an expensive hobby, and you don’t have to buy canvases that cost one hundred dollars. You can make equally lovely pieces for just a few dollars. You just have to buy the blank canvases and use a pattern from a book or a needlepoint magazine.
As with any hobby you may pursue, there are an array of tools to explore. For the beginner, perhaps one of the most confusing areas of needlepoint is in choosing the materials to be used. You can purchase a kit from a local craft store, a larger store such as Michael’s or obtain your materials by ordering online. There are kits by Dimensions , Sunset and Janlynn. Some original painted canvases are very expensive—you pay a premium for someone’s creativity. For the beginner, I am going to keep it really simple and introduce you only to the essential tools needed to complete the designs and patterns included in this book. Naturally as you become more proficient in needle pointing, you will explore other tools.
Canvas is the basic material needed for needlepoint and other forms of stitchery. The basic definition for canvas is the even, open-weave mesh to be covered by the needlepoint stitches. Both sides of the canvas should be identical. You need a canvas that is shiny and there should be no broken threads. There are two types of canvas, Penelope and Mono. Mono canvas is simply single-strand, whereas Penelope is double-strand. Most of the needlepoint kits contain mono canvas. For the beginner it is easier, as sometimes the needle can split the strands of a Penelope canvas. Canvas quality also varies. Remember this general rule: the fewer the holes, the larger the canvas. All canvases are manufactured in a total of twenty-two different meshes. The mesh of canvas is determined by the number of holes to an inch. For example, if a piece of canvas has twelve holes to an inch, it is a No 12 mesh. The only reason to know the number of holes to an inch is to know which classification of needlepoint you are doing. There are two standard classifications, gros point and petit point. I have done both. The simple rule is that gros point describes work on larger canvases whereas petit point describes work on smaller mesh canvases. The usual number of holes per inch for petit point varies from No 16 to No 40 mesh. A No 40 mesh will have 40 holes to the inch. In larger stores like Michael’s, I purchase MCG Textiles already measured canvases. The canvases should be at least two inches wider on all sides of the design you are stitching. For instance, a 10” by 10” design needs a 14” by 14” canvas.
You always need surplus canvas for taping. Use masking tape. Cut a piece of masking tape the length of each side, and wrap it around the cut edge of the canvas. You never want your thread or yarn to catch on rough edges. In finer quality stores, the owners always tape the sides whether you are purchasing a blank canvas or a painted canvas.
Use a stainless steel tapestry needle. The bluntness is very important. I always have found it a good idea to test the needle before purchasing. You should be able to prick your finger on the point. The size of the needle must be matched to your canvas. In most stores when purchasing a painted canvas the correct gauge needles are included. The following guide below is useful if you are designing your own canvas.
Canvas Recommended Needle
5 to 8 mesh: No. 15 needle
10 to 12 mesh: No. 17 or 18 needle
14 to 18 mesh: No. 19 or 20 needle
20 mesh: No. 22 needle
22 to 24 mesh: No. 24 needle
Some people want a needle for each different color of thread. I find this to be cumbersome.
Thimbles come in various sizes and should tried for comfort. I never used a thimble until about two years ago. I found a stainless steel thimble in my mother’s memory print box. I have that thimble placed on a table in the den where I do most of my needle work. I suggest buying several at a time, since they are easily misplaced or lost.
Scissors are a must for every needle pointer. There is no need to buy an expensive scissor. You should have two pairs of scissors: one small pair for trimming the loose threads on the back of the canvases after knotting, and a larger pair for cutting canvases. Small scissors with a cutting edge less than four inches (10 cm) are allowed in the cabin of an airplane. Today you can buy a cutting device which can be worn on a chain or tucked in your needle point case, too. I have several Clover Travel Cutters. I do have an old pair of scissors that belonged to my mother which I still like to use at home.
The choice of threads depends on you, but you will absolutely need threads. You can use either cotton, wool, or silk thread for needlepoint. Each thread has more than one component. The component parts for wool are called plies, those of silk are called filaments and those of cotton are called strands. All these components must settle into the canvas to make a solid covering. Also remember you can split the threads. Threads can be divided, doubled and even tripled. I have also mixed different colors after splitting the treads. If a thread does not split, do not use that thread.
Who doesn't love silk thread? This floss comes from France. French silk is often inconvenient to locate and costly to purchase, however the color and texture are so lovely that it is worth the extra effort at times. Recently at a flea market I purchased an original spool of Holland’s #10 tan silk. I use it sparingly on some of my designs to enhance the beauty. Silk thread has six filaments and is very thin. I recall that my mother used to buy silk from two stores: one in Cincinnati, Ohio and the other is Copaigue, New York. I find it very difficult to work with silk. I find it so difficult to run the needle through the back of your silk when you want to anchor a new strand.
The most common thread you will see used is cotton. Cotton thread has six strands and is easily divided. For small mesh canvases I usually use three strands. By using different numbers of strands on a single design it enhances the dimensions of the finished product. I have always used D.M.C. cotton. It comes in a variety of colors. I once counted sixty shades of red offered by D.M.C! I also like using a specific cotton called Wildflowers by Caron which can be purchased from the Caron Collection in Bridgeport, Connecticut. Cotton has disadvantages compared to other threads like wool. Cotton is less durable than wool. If you are making a pillow or the back of a chair, wool will last much longer than cotton. I have met some crafter's who feel that cotton is harder to work with due to the six strands. Cotton allows you to blend or mix a variety of colors. This is much more difficult when using wool. Considering all of this, I prefer cotton due to its availability and extensive range of colors.
Some needlepoint kits use wool. I am not fond of wool but it does bring a dimension to your canvas. There are several types of wool you can use for needlepoint. The needlepoint wools must have the strength of long fibers for you are pulling each thread many times through the large mesh canvas. There are three basic types of wool used for needlepoint: Persian, Tapestry and Rug Wool. Both the Persian and Rug wool are three ply whereas the Tapestry wool is four-ply. Persian wool is the most extensively used wool in complete kits available to buy in larger stores. I love using Tapestry wool for background wool to create thicker dimensions. I usually use the specific brand, Anchor. Rug wool is very durable and very inexpensive to buy.
It is my hope that my 21st century search for serenity is fulfilled by my needle work. It is also my hope that you who live in this technological, mechanical, toxic environment will benefit from the hours you spend with the needle in your hand
Happy stitching... More hobbies to come.
Until tomorrow...
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